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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.